Garment-drafting pattern



(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 E. J. HODGES & O. R. MATHEWS. GARMENT DRAFTING PATTERN.

Patented June 11,.1895.

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E. J. HODGES & 0, R. MATHEWS. GARMENT DEAFTING PATTERN.

No. 540,985. r Patented June 11, 1895.-

Witnesses: I V Inventors.-

d. By

I Attorneys.

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NITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

ESTELLE J. HODGES AND OARRIE'R. MATHEWS, OF WINDER, GEORGIA.

GARM ENT-DRAFTI NG PATTERN.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 540,985, dated June 11,1895. Application filed November 7, 1894- Y Serial No. 528,146. (No model.)

-United States, residing at Winder, in the county of Jacksonand State of Georgia, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Adjustable Patterns; and we do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

Our invention relates to adjustable patterns for drafting dresses or other garments, and it consists essentially of a skeleton pattern made of ribs of flexible material of the width of the seam and so arranged as to be adapted for cutting along the outer edge, and for marking the material for sewing along the inner edge.

Ourinvention also consists of certain novelfeatures of construction and arrangement of parts hereinafter described and claimed.

Reference is had to the accompanying draw ings, in which the same parts are indicated by the same' letters throughout the several views.

Figure 1 represents a plan view of the pattern arranged for the front of a dress-body. Fig. 2 represents a plan view of the adjustable pattern for the front side bodyr Fig. 3 represents a plan view ofthe adjustable pattern for the back side body. Fig. 4 represents a plan view of the adjustable pattern for the back of the dress-body, and Fig. 5 represents a plan view of the adjustable pattern adapted for use in cutting out both the top and the bottom of the sleeves.

The various figures represent a complete pattern for cutting out a dress Waist for women, or a body for children; but the same idea is readily applicable to-cutting out garments of various descriptions.

In the device shown in Fig. l a and a represent two strips of rib steel, brass, tin, or pasteboard which are adjustably connected to each other by a sliding clip 3 and the two parts represent the front measure of the body, the upper part being graduated to represent inches, and the lower part being slid down to the desired distance which is indicated by the figure corresponding to the ordinary front measure. To the upper strip a, the curved neck piece b is pivoted as at 10,and.below this neck piece the chest piece 0 is also pivotally connected, while to the lower piece a, the waist piece at is pivoted.

In all the various figures 19 represents a pivot, preferably an eyelet, and .9 represents a sliding clip and s the combination of two revoluble clips connected back to back.

The shoulder piece 6 is connected to the neck piece I) by the sliding clip .9, and to the arms-eye f by the double clip 3, and thus it may be slid up and down the neck piece and up and down the arms-eye piece to the corresponding marks which are graduated on each. The chest piece 0 is connected to the arms-eye piece by the clip 5. through which the said chest piece is free to slide.

The arms-eye piece f is pivotally connected to the upper piece g of the under arm piece which is graduated as shown, and is conneoted by sliding clips to the lower portion thereof g. This portion is curvedoutward as at g and slides along the waist piece d being held thereon by the sliding clip.

The upper portion of the waist piece is graduated for women, and the lower portion thereof is graduated. for children, and is marked childrens scalef.

The scales on the various parts are so regulated that the sum of the scales on any one part will equal the total measure of the said part; or in other words each difference of scale represents a difference proportional to the change in the measure corresponding thereto.

It will be seen by examining the front piece, which is formed of the two adjustable parts a and a, which are curved outward as at a that when the measure is long the outer edge 'will represent the sum of the two curvatures,

and will thus allow for a prominent bust, while when the measure is short, the front piece In order to cut out the dart,

swing the point of the dart h to one side and mark along the outer edge of the dart on the material the line such as is indicated by the dotted line it". Then swing the dart in the opposite direction about its pivot and mark the line 7L5 on the material along the opposite side of the dart piece It. To cut out the second dart, slide the dart piece along the waist piece to the proper position and cutout a dart a half inch higher but in the same way.

In using the hereinbefore described pattern trace on the inside forsewing and on the outside for cutting except with the neck and arms-eye, where the cutting should be on the inside.

By having the various strips about threefourths of an inch wide, or the most com mon width of a seam, it is possible to use the same pattern for marking both the cutting edge and the sewing edge.

In the adjustable pattern shown in Fig. 2 for the front side body, the two parts and 7c are adjustably connected together by sliding clips while to the top of the upper piece is the arms'eye piecef is pivoted. The waist piece d is pivoted to the lowerpiece 7c and these two pieces f and d slide through clips on the adjustable pieces m and m. It will be thus seen that the pattern may be readily adjusted to the various measurements of the front side body. In a similar way, in the structure shown in Fig. 3, the curved strips (1 and q are connected together by sliding clips and have pivoted thereto the arms eye piecef and the waist piece d'", which two latter pieces pass through the clips 8 pivoted to the pieces r and 1", respectively, which are secured together by sliding clips. These parts 0' and r are curved as shown at r and the lower part 1" is curved as at T The back pattern shown in Fig. 4, consists of two back pieces t and t adjustably connected together and having pivoted thereto the curved neck piece I), the back width 0 and the waist piece 01'. The lower part of the back piece 15 is bent inward at an angle just above the waist piece.

The curved under arm pieces u and u are adjustably connected together and the lower piece a is also adjustably connected to the waist piece (1, while the upper piece to has pivoted thereto the curved arms eye piecef. The back width 0' and the shoulder piece (2 are attached to the curved arms eye piece by double clips 8; while the said shoulder piece is connected to the curved neck piece I) by a sliding clip 8.

The device shown in Fig. 5 represents a combination pattern for both the top and the bottom of the sleeve, when the parts are in the position shown in full lines, the pattern is adapted for use in drafting the top of the sleeve. The single curved side pieces w and y are connected by the curved top sleeve piece m which is slid to. the same figure in each of the clips .9 and The clip s is composed of three parts each revolubly connected to the other. The wrist piece 2 is separated by a line 2' into a top scale used for measuring the top of the sleeve, and a bottom scale used for measuring the bottom of the sleeve at the wrist. When the bottom of the sleeve is being cut out the lower portion of the piece 1; is slid on to the bottom scale on the piece 2', the top of sleeve piecemis swung out into the position shown in dotted lines, and the oppositely curved bottom of the sleeve piece y is swung up into the position shown in dotted lines and passed into the clip 3, the piece :0 having been previously withdrawn from the said clip. The longitudinal measurements on the sleeve are indicated by the graduations shown on the pieces '1) and w. Thus it will be seen that the same pattern is adapted for use in cutting out both the top and thebottom of the sleeve.

In adjusting the various patterns be careful that each line crosses at the proper figure according to the measures. Trace on theinside for sewing, and on the outside for cutting, except on the neck and arms-eye, which two should be cut on the inside.

It will be noted that most of the cutting edges are perfectly free from obstructions to the drafting pencil, and the pattern may be simply laid on the cloth and out around with the shears if it is preferred.

The herein described device has a wide range of adaptability being suited for almost any size of woman or child. It will be obvious that the same principle might be applied to the construction of patterns for various other garments.

It will be seen that the herein described device comprises a complete pattern for the body of a dress or similar garment, and that each of the parts of the pattern may be readily adjusted to fit in with the various other parts of the pattern.

Having thus described our invention, what we claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States, is-

1. An adjustable pattern for drafting the fronts of garments comprising in combination, the outline pieces, to wit, the front, under arm, neck, shoulder, and arms eye pieces, ad justably and pivotally connected together, the chest piece adjustably connecting the front and arm s-eye pieces, the waist piece adjustably connecting the front and under arm pieces, and the dart piece pivoted on the waist piece, and adapted to slide thereon, said dart piece comprising an approximately rectangular lower portion and a tapering upper portion,the said upperportion beingprovided with a plurality of holes arranged at graded distances from the pivot of said dart, substantially as and for the purposes described.

2. An adjustable pattern for drafting the sleeves of garments, comprising in combination, the front and back curved sleeve pieces, the wrist piece adjustably connected to the IIO front and back sleeve pieces, and the curved In testimony whereof we affix our signatop sleeve piece adjustably connected to both tures in presence of two witnesses. of said front and back sleeve pieces, and the ESTELLE J. HODGES.

curved bottom sleeve piece adjustably con- CARRIE R. MATHEWS. 5 nected to the back sleeve piece at the inter- Witnesses:

section of the topand back sleeve pieces, sub- W. A. MATHEWS,

stantially as described. J T. HODGES/ 

